Going to be tricky to get to the MCU now that I've added all the tall parts (which surround it), but should be doable. That will also let me test if the short goes away. I think my next step is to just desolder the MCU, pull it off and have a look. I tried adding flux and touching the pins last night, but they look okay and didn't change much. I have a couple other random pins that are testing as shorted to GND too, so that seems the logical spot. I think I've got a short under the MCU which is QFN28. Did some probing, and somehow I have a short between 5V and GND! It was late, I didn't have tons of time to troubleshoot, but I confirmed every component was the right part in the right position and obviously my schematic doesn't have a short. Put my finger there, flipped it on again and immediately that started getting hot. Immediately noticed no "power" LED came on, so I shut it back off (was on for ~1 second). VICTORY!! So, I soldered on all the through-hole parts and powered it up. I ran it through my reflow oven using the same profile as last time (though I now finally got my PC to talk to the oven so can make my own profiles if needed), and it came out looking amazing! Joints were shiny and pretty, fillets all looked nice, and on the tough chip (half large pads, half QFN type pads, big solder pours) it looked great AND no shorts detected. One lay-down pass, one clean pass, dead center on every pad - looked fantastic. With that, some paste kneading to get air out and up to room temp, I got what I would consider a perfect paste laid down. I got a decent magnifying glass in last night which I've been waiting on to be able to better confirm my stencil placement. More to learn, hoping I can get some time this week to fiddle with software and be ready to full-court-press on getting a whole board assembled and flowed next weekend! EDIT1: Added link to previous postĪs another update (unfortunately without pictures). Maybe just because I didn't populate it and, presumably, doing so would've thinned out the solder vs what I got flowing it bare? Anyway - some progress made. Also, the pads for the DRV8144 (not populated pic 10) almost look to me like they don't have enough solder. Now that I can get the software going, I am going to make what I think is a very close profile to the one described in the GC10 literature and repeat this process, hopefully with slightly better alignment of the solder paste. Maybe the soak time was too long and the flux activated too soon in the process? I'm not sure. It almost looks to me like it didn't quite reflow all the way, but I'm not positive that's the case. The solder joints look a bit "crusty" and you can see in a couple spots there a spot of brown stuff (presumably flux?) left on the finished joint. Things I did: - Leveled and bound my work tables into one relatively flat, level, contiguous platform (mostly in prep for a PnP, but needed to be done) - Over-engineered and 3D-printed a very basic stencil printer bed - Cut down my WAY oversized (380mmX250mm for a 46圆4mm single board) stainless stencil to work with the new green machine - Kneaded my (room temperature) GC-10 on a glass plate before use (saw the consistency become homogenous and even worked a few air bubbles out of the mix) - Made a semi-janky but functional stainless mesh standoff for my T-937M reflow so boards wouldn't sit directly on the tray - Pasted a board (three times!) until I got a decent looking paste - Added some random 0603 passives to that board, and reflowed it using Profile 4 on my T-937M Things I wanted to get done but didn't: - Create a custom reflow profile for my little oven - couldn't get the software to install, gave up the fight as it was consuming time I didn't have (I have since gotten a working T937.exe and I think I can get it going now) - Test multiple reflow profiles to see if one worked better than others - Assemble and flow a whole board, particularly with the thermally tough (and most expensive) chip in place - Make a better stencil-holder hinge with aluminum tape that I know I have, but couldn't locate - Also, I did not have a magnifying glass and couldn't get the stencil under my microscope, you can see in the pics it was still a touch off This looks MUCH better than the first (fully assembled) board I ran through my oven (twice). Unfortunately due to unforeseen time commitments, I only had about 4 hours Sunday to spend on it - probably about half what I needed. I took all the good advice offered in my previous post and took another swing at reflowing a board myself this weekend.
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Urn:oclc:record:1359400714 Foldoutcount 0 Identifier starfallsingalon0001unse Identifier-ark ark:/13960/s2rxm6f6xbr Invoice 1652 Isbn 9781595770912ġ595770917 Ocr tesseract 5.2.0-1-gc42a Ocr_detected_lang en Ocr_detected_lang_conf 1.0000 Ocr_detected_script Latin Ocr_detected_script_conf 1.0000 Ocr_module_version 0.0.18 Ocr_parameters -l eng Old_pallet IA-NS-0001400 Page_number_confidence 72.73 Pages 46 Pdf_module_version 0.0.19 Ppi 360 Rcs_key 24143 Republisher_date 20220927223120 Republisher_operator Republisher_time 129 Scandate 20220923122715 Scanner Scanningcenter cebu Scribe3_search_catalog isbn Scribe3_search_id 9781595770912 Tts_version 5.Skyfall is a 2012 spy film and the twenty-third in the James Bond series produced by Eon Productions. Access-restricted-item true Addeddate 16:02:31 Autocrop_version 0.0.14_books-20220331-0.2 Bookplateleaf 0002 Boxid IA40714808 Camera USB PTP Class Camera Collection_set printdisabled External-identifier The type on the poster is set in Caslon Egyptian (1816), thought to be the first sans serif typeface to be sold commercially. A stark instruction intended to be taken on faith, all on the oh so calm bright blood-red background. There’s no reason given, no explanation, nothing inherent to the design or the typography that makes it calming or comforting or persuasive: just the ultimate in propaganda. Telling people to “KEEP CALM AND CARRY ON” is about as comforting as saying “BIG BROTHER IS WATCHING YOU” or “YOU ALMOST CERTAINLY SHUT YOUR FRONT DOOR PROPERLY”. It’s an anti-design design where the only brief is to simply shout a message as loudly and clearly as possible. It’s the government-sanctioned equivalent of a quickly-typed office note ordering workers “DO NOT LEAVE DIRTY MUGS IN SINK”. So what’s the big problem with this phe-nostalgia-menon? Where did it appear from? And when will it all end? Present-day Britain has been invaded by a legion of KEEP CALM AND CARRY ON posters, mugs, T shirts and other items of generic derivative tat. And so you have never had cause to see posters bearing the message ‘KEEP CALM AND CARRY ON’, as, after they were designed in 1939, they were never used. Secondly, the good news is that the 1940s Britain you’ve just left was never invaded by Germany. You should fit in to present-day Britain: Europe seems to be in disarray, Britain is being ruled by a coalition government, and the Daily Mail is still trying to pretend it was never sympathetic towards fascism. If you have just been flung 70 years through time, and, somehow, found yourself reading this blog, let me explain.įirstly, 1940s time traveller, don’t panic (my advice would be to keep calm and carry on). The actual color and dimensions of the item may slightly deviate from the visual representation due to variations in monitors and lighting effects.Ironically, one of the few reasons you might not be aware of the Second World War KEEP CALM AND CARRY ON branded poster/teatowel/mug/notebook/keyring/home pregnancy testing kit trend is if you’ve time travelled from the early 1940s. Fiber content may vary for different colors. There might be a slight 1-inch variance due to manual measurements. Fantastic gift idea for birthdays, celebrations, or simply to bring a smile to your child's face.Versatile style for casual wearm sports activities, or special occasions. Comfortable fit that allows your child to move freely.Long-lasting wear, withstanding the rigors of play and frequent washings.Unmatched softness and comfort keep cozy all day long. Shoulder-to-shoulder taping ensures a secure fit.Quarter-turned design and seamless three-quarter-inch collar contribute to an overall comfortable fit.Double-needle stitched neckline guarantees durability.Features graphic and letter prints that add an adorable and unique look.Tailored for both boys and girls, unisex style.Colors available: Black, White, Blue, Red, Grey, etc.Available in a range of sizes, from XS to XL.Made from lightweight and soft cotton fabric."Keep Calm And Carry On Vintage Poster Print Retro Kid T-Shirt" is a versatile and comfortable addition to your child's wardrobe, crafted with quality and style in mind. Once the transfer has completed, click Ok. Before you download AnyTrans, you may still wonder: Is AnyTrans safe In fact, you don’t have to worry about the security of AnyTrans at all. Connect your iPhone to the computer via USB. As a comprehensive iOS data manager, AnyTrans can do for you including but not limited to: Free Download. Select the messages and items you want to restore. Select Messages or Calls again to bring up more conversations. You will be returned to the Messages, Calls, and Attachments screen within AnyTrans.Sign in to Google account on the Android device for the Google Drive where the backup is located, then tap Restore within WhatsApp.Once connected, follow the on-screen instructions to install WhatsApp Custom Version onto the Android smartphone and to give permission for the app to access WhatsApp data.You need the Android smartphone to be able to decrypt the data. For Messages and Calls, connect the original Android device to the computer using USB.This process can get tiring and time-consuming, especially if you’re using a free version of a service. Open Dropbox on your iPhone and download new files from there.
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